Wine Advisor
Jean Philippe Fichet, Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts 2017
Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
(from 55-year-old vines; 10% new oak): Bright yellow with a green tinge. Expressive, very ripe aromas of peach, orange zest and spicy oak, plus a suggestion of menthol. Sappy, concentrated wine with modest sweetness but lovely savory minerality. A rather concentrated wine with a firm edge of acidity and a slowly mounting finish featuring a note of modestly ripe peach and a chewy phenolic quality. One feels the millerandage here, as well as a touch of finishing warmth. (picked on the third day of the harvest with 13.8% potential alcohol)
Reviewed by: William Kelley
Fichet's lone premier cru, the 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts exhibits pretty aromas of lemon oil, white flowers and crushed chalk, followed by a medium to full-bodied, delicately textural and decidedly elegant palate, with tangy acids but seemingly not quite the depth or length of his Meursault Le Tesson.
About the Producer
Un terroir, une passion, une rigueur, un savoir faire "Although he understands the less interesting first-level wines, Jean-Philippe Fichet only relies on the village-level Les Chevalieres and Le Tesson to become an elite winery in the village. Although the brewing method is quite traditional, it uses about 30% of the new wine. The barrels have also been carefully stirred, but the wine is quite dry and transparent, often with very strong and firm acidity, but very delicious and balanced. Landscape: Burgundy Wines The Fichet family has been cultivating the grapevine for three generations, and since the day he was born, Jean-Philippe Fichet cannot live without the vines. In 1981, 20-year-old Jean-Philippe launched his first vintage due to a lease transfer agreement. Three years later, he added "au Vieux Saint Christophe", where bottles of wine can be elevaged to their best condition. In 1991, his lease expired, and the four hectares of vines that had been developed were recovered by one of the proprietaires. Le respect est un guide dans chaque etape de son travail. Jean-Philippe understands that the quality of wine is determined by the grapes. Subsoil (sous-sol) and soil play a key role. Almost every farming step is manual, requiring experienced grape farmers to achieve a high level of essence. Depending on the annual situation, decide whether to adopt "vendage en vert". All steps follow the tradition, show respect for the soil, and the compost is prepared by Jean-Philippe; the hotel is currently exploring the use of organic farming (agriculture biologique), adhering to the principle of "perfect fruit, can brew the top wine" ( il n'y a pas de grand vin sans raisin de qualite irreprochable). When the grape bunches enter the veraison period, the winery checks the ripeness of the fruit at all times. The decision on the harvest date is very open. Every year, Jean-Philippe struggles constantly, "choosing to wait or harvest early"; only Jean-Philippe can decide the date, and sometimes the harvest is already in progress, and the harvest is still in progress. Interim decision to suspend because the desired maturity has not been reached. All grapes are harvested by hand, and each vendor (vendangeur) is experienced and can understand the importance of Jean-Philippe's treasures, which derives the sense of mission of "creating a good ranch together".