Wine Advisor
Jean-Marc Vincent, Santenay Les Vignes Denses 2022
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: William Kelley
The 2022 Santenay Les Vignes Denses will rival its 2020 counterpart, unwinding in the glass with aromas of ripe citrus fruit and pear mingled with notions of white flowers, buttery pastry and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, its deep core of fruit underpinned by a chalky chassis of structuring dry extract, it concludes with a long, mineral finish.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The 2022 Santenay Les Vignes Denses is a blend of Village and Premier Cru grown on light limestone soils and marls. The slightly more floral bouquet has touches of white flowers and undergrowth, requiring quite a bit of coaxing from the glass. The palate has fine weight on the entry with lemon sherbet notes and orange pith aromas. The well-balanced palate has a brisk opening, offering touches of orange rind, peach and a slightly honeyed texture towards the finish. A solid Santenay rather than an exceptional one.
About the Producer
Anne-Marie and Jean-Marc Vincent inherited most of their vines, principally located in and around the village of Santenay in the southern Côte de Beaune, from Jean-Marc’s grandfather, André Bardollet-Bravard. They produce three premier cru reds and two premier cru whites from Santenay, in addition to a red and a white Auxey-Duresses. The Vincent wines are characterized by rich, layered fruit, intense expression of individual terroir, and solid structure. Their Auxey-Duresses Blanc “Les Hautés,” which thankfully happens to be their highest production wine (that is, more than two barrels produced), is a gem and a role model for other producers of the appellation. This is the wine that first attracted Kermit to the domaine. “I had rarely had an Auxey-Duresses that excited my taste buds,” he said, “I knew I was on to something.” And indeed it reaches the heights of many a white Burgundy with a greater pedigree. It also evolves well in one’s cellar. The Vincents’ wine operation is a family affair and A-M and J-M split their time between the vineyards, cellars and their young children. Their miniscule production always sells out quickly to a small group of devoted clients. All of their wines are a testament to the importance of vigneron talent in a given appellation. While a great vigneron can make over-achievers from any appellation, a great appellation will never be great in the hands of mediocrity.
