Wine Advisor
Jacques Selosse, Substance Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The NV (2015) Extra-Brut Substance is fascinating. It offers terrific brightness and focus, with pretty hints of citrus, dried herbs and spice. The blend in this release spans vintages 1986 through 2015. There is a bit of vintage 2015 savoriness, but here it is balanced by all of the other vintages in the blend. Disgorged: October 4, 2022. Bottled with no dosage.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The NV Extra-Brut Substance is terrific. This is an especially vibrant, focused edition of Substance. Readers who want to appreciate this in its full glory must be patient. Today, the flavors are very much on the fresher end of the spectrum. The long finish is a thing of beauty. This is an exceptionally polished Substance, with a bit less of the oxidative character that often marks this wine. The current release is a solera blend incorporating vintages from 2014 to 1986. Dosage is 1.33 grams per liter. Disgorged: April 10, 2022.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The NV (2010) Extra-Brut Substance is fabulous. Anselme and Guillaume Selosse craft a Champagne that is at once opulent and vibrant in Substance, which is made from a solera-style blend that goes back to 1986. That blend of vintages over time yields a Champagne with unreal textural and flavor complexity. There's just no other wine in Champagne like it. A hint of reduction adds character to the rich, honeyed Chardonnay fruit in a Substance that hits all the right notes. Disgorged: January 30, 2020.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The NV (2009) Extra-Brut Substance is a rich, enveloping wine. Like all of the 2009-based Champagnes here, the Substance shows a touch of volatile acidity that is at the limit of being distracting. Almond, apricot jam, orange peel, butter, pastry and tropical inflections all run through the 2009. Super-expressive and inviting, the 2009 has a lot to offer, even if it is not one of my very favorite recent editions of this wine. Dosage is 1 gram per liter.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The NV Substance is a total stunner. Radiant and yet remarkably fresh, with tremendous tension, the Substance is wonderfully expressive from the very first taste. Whereas Substance can be oxidative and also a bit heavy, this release is explosive, vibrant and simply stunning in its beauty. This version is based on the 2009, with a solera that goes back to 1986. Anselme and Guillaume Selosse ascribe the less-oxidative recent style of Substance to the diminishing influence in the solera of a number of vintages that were aged without SO2, specifically 1996 through 1999 and 2002. Disgorged May 4, 2017. Dosage is 1.3 grams per liter.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Sadly, the Substance (03/06) is flawed. Disgorged 03/2006.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The level of intensity moves into another realm with the NV Extra Brut Substance, Selosse’s solera-style Blanc de Blancs that includes wines back to 1986. Creamy and expansive on the palate, with notable vinous intensity, the Substance captures so many of the qualities that make Anselme Selosse’s Champagnes so compelling. Disgorged December 16, 2015
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Selosse's NV Substance, based on 2007, is remarkably fresh considering the solera style that goes back to 1986. Candied lemon, white flowers and herbs are fused together in an ample, creamy Champagne. The classic Substance breadth is there, but in this release, the wine is a bit less overtly oxidative in style than it can be. Disgorged October 2015. Dosage is 1.3 grams per liter.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The NV Substance, Selosse's first solera-style Champagne is quite restrained in this release with more freshness and fewer oxidative notes than are typical. Honey, graphite, dried apricots, wild flowers and anise blossom in an ample, resonant Chardonnay loaded with personality. The flavors are remarkably bright, pure and focused. This bottle was disgorged September 12, 2013. Dosage is 0.7 grams per liter.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
What a pleasure it is to spend some time with Anselme Selosse’s NV Substance. The warm, oxidative flavors typical of this Champagne take on greater breadth and volume now that this bottled has been disgorged for a few years. Calm, resonant and cozy like a hearth in winter, the Substance is fabulous from the very first taste. It also pairs beautifully with the yellowfin tuna appetizer, as the flavors and textures play very much in the same burnished, gently oxidized register.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Selosse's NV Substance represents the purest essence of Chardonnay from Avize. The word 'Burgundian' is used, perhaps even overused when describing Champagne, but if there is a case where the term fits, this is it. Taught and vibrant, Substance impresses for its depth and volume. Smoke, apricot, roasted nuts, flowers and spices flow through to the deep, resonant finish. Substance is often a bit more forward because it is made with a perpetual solera method. This release is a bit brighter than the norm, which isn't a bad thing, as Substance is sometimes a bit of an adventurous wine. This year's release captures a striking balance in every way as it captivates all of the senses. This is an utterly mesmerizing bottle. This bottle was disgorged on January 16, 2013.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Dried herbs, flowers, anise, hard candy, dried pears and apricots are some of the many notes that emerge from the NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Substance. Deep, sensual and totally beguiling, the Substance impresses for its sheer personality and richness. With time in the glass attractive streaks of tar, smoke and incense flesh out, giving the wine considerable muscle and a sense of pure gravitas that is utterly compelling. There is a level of richness and breadth that makes it hard to believe Substance is 100% Chardonnay, but much of that comes from the Solera method that incorporates vintages back to 1986. Substance is always one of the more eccentric wines in the range, but it is pure magic. Disgorgement date: October 5, 2011.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Anselme Selosse's NV Substance was a different beast altogether next to the Bouchard. The intense, almost orange color gave a good indication of the aromatic and flavor profile that would follow. Substance is Selosse's original solera-style Champagne. It typically shows quite a bit of tertiary complexity when released. This 2008 disgorgement naturally revealed even more nuance in that direction while never abandoning its essential minerality. It was a fabulous wine that continued to grow in the glass.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
As if it were possible, the NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Substance takes things up a notch or three. Montrachet with bubbles might be a good description for this profound, utterly moving Champagne. Waves of rich, sensual fruit supported by French oak and persistent veins of minerality all come together in this deep, totally satisfying Champagne. Even with all of the richness and depth, there is no sense of heaviness at all. This is a decidedly vibrant Substance, with fewer of the more oxidative notes this solera-style Champagne sometimes presents. Readers lucky enough to find it will enjoy one of the world's truly great wines. Disgorged October 22, 2010.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Substance remains one of the most exotic, intriguing wines being made in the region today. I admire the way the wine shows the maturity one might expect considering the solera-style blend goes back to 1986, while maintaining terrific freshness and verve, Full-bodied to the core, Substance sweeps across the palate with layers of intense fruit. Hints of orange peel, crème brulée, spices, licorice and mint add complexity as this full-bodied, intense wine opens up in the glass. The finish is long, sublime and just as refined as it is nuanced. Substance is one of Selosse's most challenging wines in that it requires the taster's full attention. Readers who take the time to explore Substance will be rewarded with one of the great drinking experiences in the world of wine. Substance is Selosse's first solera-style Champagne and dates back to 1987. Disgorged October 10th, 2009.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Substance is 100% Chardonnay from Avize made Solera-style, with vintages dating back to 1986. The December 4, 2008 disgorgement is a rich, liqueur-like wine endowed with layers of roasted nuts, honey, licorice, dried apricots, tobacco and spices. As is often the case, the Substance presents a fascinating combination of the old and the new. The aromas and flavors are that of a wine with age, but the mousse is impeccably fresh. This is a fascinating, contemplative Champagne, and while it can be a difficult wine to grasp, Substance is also incredibly rewarding. Disgorged December 4, 2008
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Selosse’s NV Substance (disgorged November 20, 2007), a solera-style Champagne composed of vintages dating back to 1987, was even better. This profound, enveloping Champagne flowed onto the palate with intricate waves of fruit. It was a meditative, contemplative wine of the very highest level.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The NV Blanc de Blancs Substance is the wine that perhaps encapsulates this producer's philosophy to the fullest. Selosse thinks vintages are given far too much importance, and with this wine he seeks to exalt the qualities of Avize Chardonnay to the fullest. The Substance is best described as a multi-vintage solera-style wine in which 22% of each vintage is blended with the wine of previous years. Notes of honey, almonds, baking spices, dried apricots and candied orange peel emerge from this compelling, totally unique wine. The solera approach naturally gives this wine some oxidative notes that may come as a surprise to unsuspecting tasters. For that reason, the Substance is probably the hardest wine in this lineup to immediately understand. This bottle was disgorged on November 20, 2007.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Our second dinner began with Jacques Selosses’ NV Substance, which had acquired much complexity, volume and breadth since its disgorgement in 2001. It was sweet, full-bodied and simply luscious.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Jacques Selosse’s NV Substance (disgorged April 2007) was a fitting bookend to this phenomenal dinner. This solera-based Champagne burst from the glass with compelling aromatics that melded seamlessly on a full-bodied palate packed with fruit. With each taste it revealed brilliant balance and a finish that lasted well into the cold winter night.
Reviewed by: Josh Raynolds
(disgorged October 5, 2011): Yellow-gold. Deeply concentrated aromas of poached pear, peach pit and jasmine, along with a spicy ginger element. In the glass, powerful pit and orchard fruit flavors pick up vanilla and candied fig, along with a refreshing kick of spiciness. Plush and expansive but lively and precise, finishing with impressive power and length.
Reviewed by: Josh Raynolds
(disgorged October 22, 2010): Bright yellow-gold. Powerful, perfumed aromas of iodine, toasted nuts, peach pit and poached pear. Round, sappy and powerful, with bright acidity adding lift and spine to dense orchard and pit fruit flavors. The explosive, very long finish echoes the iodine and toast notes and clings with impressive tenacity. This Champagne reminded me of a rich white Burgundy.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The Extra Brut Substance from Selosse was a December 2008 disgorgement so it had a decade’s bottle age. Flame me all you want, but Selosse never rocks my world because like others, most notably Tom Stevenson MW, I just cannot abide their oxidative nature. It just seems wrong. Burnished gold in color, it has a pungent dried honey, hazelnut and rather musty bouquet whose oxidation became increasingly pronounced with aeration, to the point where I refused to stick my nose in the glass. The palate has a potent, almost acrid, nutty entry with a strong cider-like element that put me totally off. I appreciate the weight and length of this champagne and a Selosse fan could find a million excuses why it smells and tastes as it does. But the bottom line is that I would much rather drink a well-made commercial supermarket champagne that has not forgotten the first rule of wine – it must give pleasure. Disgorged 12/2008.
Reviewed by: Kristaps Karklins
One of the pinnacles of the tasting with Selosse, unsurprisingly, is the NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Substance, a wine with the most complex making, going through four stages of maturation: from barrels to the bottle. As always, it derives from a solera created in 1986. Originally, the wine was sourced from two parcels in Avize, but today the base wine (which eventually contributes only about 4.8% to the final blend in the bottle) is produced from a selection of plots in the village. Guillaume opted to include parcels that best fit the desired balance—sometimes these will be south-facing, other times east or even north-facing sites. Muscular and multidimensional, it jumps from the glass with a bouquet of kaleidoscopic complexity, featuring notes of orange zest, spices, beeswax, toasted hazelnuts and dried fig. On the palate, it is full-bodied, vinous and textural yet searingly chalky—even more mineral than Les Chantereines. Guillaume Selosse remarks that oxidation during maturation (and through multiple transfers between different vessels) frees the wine from fruit in a classic sense, leaving mostly chalky extract and enhancing its mineral aspect. Every time I taste at this great domaine, I vacillate between Substance and the lieux-dits as to which wine best defines this benchmark producer. The latest release was disgorged in July 2024 with 1.5 grams per liter dosage and promises a concentrated, unforgettable drinking experience.
About the Producer
Jacques Selosse Estate is a highly regarded Champagne house. It is known for its Substance cuvée, and its use of a solera system dating back to 1986, a technique more commonly associated with Sherry. The Brut Initiale and Version Originale are both made from three vintages of Chardonnay from Avize, Cramant and Oger. Jacques Selosse's Flagship cuvée Substance, also a blanc de blanc, is sourced from the Avize terroir. From 2010, the Lieux-Dits Collection of six single-vineyard wines was introduced showcasing specific Champagne villages. In the winery, Jacques Selosse uses oak barrels for fermentation rather than the usual stainless steel. The wines are left on their lees for extended periods, and dosage is kept to a minimum. The estate was set up in the 1950s by Jacques Selosse, who sold a large portion of his grapes to Champagne Lanson. However, the house gained the most fame from his son Anselme Selosse, who took over the running of the estate in 1980. Selosse improved quality, reducing yields and converting the vineyards to organic viticulture. He also began to carefully consider the terroir of the vineyard holdings, particularly in the grand cru villages Avize, Cramant and Oger. Today, he is known for being one of the first to champion terroir in Champagne.
