Wine Advisor
Il Poggione, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli 2007
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
A huge, dramatic wine, the 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva literally explodes from the glass. This is a decidedly exuberant, flashy wine loaded with dark fruit. Tobacco, smoke, tar and licorice all come alive in this big, broad-shouldered Riserva. Here, too, the wine’s balance is impeccable. Longtime winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci describes 2008 as a challenging year. The winter saw quite a bit of rain. Flowering was normal, but it was followed by a wet July. Like most of their neighbors, Il Poggione suffered the devastating effects of the August 15 hailstorm that took with it 50% of the production. Proprietor Leopoldo Franceschi happened to be at the estate to celebrate the national holiday, but was so traumatized by the events he vowed never again to set foot on his property on August 15th! When Franceschi has more time to reflect on the quality of his wine, he may change his mind. Longtime winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci and his son Alessandro decided not to bottle their Riserva in 2008, so all of the juice went into the straight Brunello bottling, which is easily one of the wines of the vintage. The next Riserva from Il Poggione will be the 2010. As has long been the custom here, the Brunelli are fermented in stainless steel, with natural yeasts. The malos also occur naturally, after which the wines are moved into 33- and 50-hectoliter French oak casks. The Poggione Brunellos, especially the straight bottling, remain among the very best values in cellar worthy wine anywhere in the world. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli is a huge wine bursting with fruit. Powerful tannins provide the backdrop as the 2007 shows off its dazzling power and density. Rarely have sensuality and structure been so evident in a young Brunello. The 2007 is going to require considerable patience but it is a stunning wine. The long, explosive finish is utterly captivating. Anticipated maturity: 2022-2047. It’s hard to know where to start with these new releases from Il Poggione, as every wine I tasted was strikingly beautiful. This is a great showing from father and son team Fabrizio and Alessandro Bindocci. Il Poggione’s Brunello di Montalcino remains one of the most fairly priced, ageworthy wines on the planet. Readers may want to take a look at my video interview with Alessandro Bindocci posted on www.erobertparker.com for more on Il Poggione. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Il Poggione's 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli is utterly stunning, but it is surprisingly tannic and huge for a vintage in which so many wines are much more approachable. Layers of dark red stone fruit open up on the palate, followed by sweet spices, savory herbs and mint. Beautifully perfumed and expressive throughout, the 2007 is a jewel of a wine. The only thing it needs is time.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
A huge, dramatic wine, the 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva literally explodes from the glass. This is a decidedly exuberant, flashy wine loaded with dark fruit. Tobacco, smoke, tar and licorice all come alive in this big, broad-shouldered Riserva. Here, too, the wine's balance is impeccable.
Reviewed by: Ian d'Agata
(14.5% alcohol): Bright ruby-red. Aromas of cassis, dark plum, smoky underbrush, spicecake and tobacco, plus a strong component of sweet, nutty oak. Lush, full and sweet, with black fruit, vanilla and licorice flavors dominating. The long finish features big, broad, mouthdusting tannins that coat the front teeth. Given the nature of 2007, this big wine probably won't be as long-lived as some other recent vintages for this estate, whose wines are known for their longevity. But it offers plenty of early appeal for a Riserva and should evolve nicely for another 15 years.
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Il Poggione's 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli is utterly stunning, but it is surprisingly tannic and huge for a vintage in which so many wines are much more approachable. Layers of dark red stone fruit open up on the palate, followed by sweet spices, savory herbs and mint. Beautifully perfumed and expressive throughout, the 2007 is a jewel of a wine. The only thing it needs is time.
About the Producer
Tenuta il poggione covers an area of 530 hectares (1300 acres), of which 140 hectares (336 acres) are planted with vines and 50 hectares (120 acres) with olive trees; the rest are dedicated to grain fields, forest and livestock. The estate’s guiding principle is to pay great care to the vines, because the secret of producing great red wines lies in the high-quality vineyard work. In the light of a sustainable agriculture, the winery has always planted different crops along the vineyards and limited the use of chemicals. Most recently, it has installed solar panels on the roof of its cellar, with the purpose to reduce the carbon footprint of its wines. The vineyard work is mainly manual, for the harvest and for the other jobs. Thanks to the practice of the green harvest, the monitoring of the vineyards’ health conditions and the soil’s nutritional needs, it is possible to obtain an excellent wine even in more difficult vintages.
