Wine Advisor
Harlan, Proprietary Red 1998
View analysis
Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Deep garnet core. The nose is very powerful and intense with notes of macerated black cherries, black olives and creme de cassis all cloaked in warm alcohol. It almost overwhelms the senses, bullies them into submission. Full-bodied and tannic on the palate, hedonistic Cabernet that I found overpowering at first, but actually develops a degree of delineation and tension only after 90 minutes in the glass. Dried figs, then a very subtle touch of black pepper towards the finish.But this wine left me a little (gulp!) bored. Tasted June 2008.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1998, which is a candidate for the "Wine of the Vintage," was produced from yields of 0.9 tons per acre. There are only 1,100 cases, and it is the first Harlan Estate to be composed of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. A spectacular achievement, it boasts an opaque plum/purple color as well as a sumptuous nose of espresso, mineral, blueberry, blackberry, tobacco, licorice, Asian spice, and roasted meat smells. In the mouth, it is seamless, full-bodied, with an unctuous texture, gorgeously sweet tannin, and layer upon layer of concentration. This is a tour de force in winemaking. It is hard to believe that a wine such as this has emerged from 1998. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2030. Tel. (707) 844-1441; fax (707) 944-1444
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The 1998 Harlan Estate is one of the three or four most riveting wines of this irregular vintage. Fifty percent of the crop was cut off in order to guarantee ripeness in what was an abnormally cold year. Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, it possesses a degree of sweetness, richness, and intensity not found in most 1998s. The color is opaque black/purple/plum. The bouquet offers scents of ripe blackberries, cedar, licorice, and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, with sweet tannin, low acidity, and stunning ripeness and length, this glorious effort should age effortlessly for two decades. Tel. (707) 944-1441; Fax (707) 944-1444
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at Hermitage Wines’ seminar in Hong Kong. The 1998 was tasted alongside the 2006 and I must confess that I much prefer the latter. The nose is pleasurable and more hedonistic with ravishing black fruits with exotic touches of candied orange peel and apricot. The palate is full-bodied with saturated thick tannins, great build and dimension, but for me, lacking sufficient tension towards the sweet finish. Enjoyable, but I would rather the more backward 2006. Tasted November 2011.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
Saturated dark ruby. Aromas of black fruits, bitter chocolate, caramel and nutty, charred oak. Amazingly lush and silky for the year, with ripe flavors of black cherry, black raspberry and licorice. Can't match the '97, or the '99, for sheer density but this is bright, concentrated, suave and very long. Tannins are even and fine. A remarkable performance in the context of the year.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
Saturated ruby. Roasted black raspberry, maple syrup and shoe polish on the nose. Very smooth, rich and lush; amazingly full and long for the vintage. Tannins are substantial but even and sweet. Most Napa wineries couldn't produce a wine like this even in a great year.
About the Producer
The land at Château Harlan is unique in that the vineyards are situated on hillsides that are well drained and rise and fall with the slopes. The first 9.7 hectares of vineyard, planted between 1986 and 1987, was planted in a staggered manner, as the two small plots that make up the vineyard are located on either side of the hillside. The vines were planted with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. The vineyards are planted at varying densities, with half of the vineyards planted with 1,750 vines per hectare and the other half with 5,500 vines per hectare. The high quality of Château Hallam's wines is a result of the meticulousness of the entire winemaking process. The winemaking philosophy at Château Hallam is to preserve the natural flavour of the grapes and to take a gentle approach to the growing and fermentation process. The barrels in the winery are all new French oak barrels. The main wine, Harlan Estate Proprietary Red, is aged in barrel for 25 months, while the unselected wine is bottled after 10 months as a secondary wine, The Maiden, without filtration or clarification. The wines of Château Hallam are dark in colour, fruity and floral, with strong, restrained tannins and a firm, robust texture, and have the potential to age for at least 20 years. Best vintages include: 1991, 1996, 1997, 2001, 2002, 2004 and 2007.
