Wine Advisor
Georges Lignier, Clos St Denis Grand Cru 2016
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
(half of these vines are 70 years old, the other half 60): Moderately saturated medium red. Musky, soil-driven scents of fresh red fruits, crushed rock, flint and rose petal. Penetrating and sharply delineated, offering terrific intensity to its flavors of red berries, sappy cherry, minerals and blood orange. At once salty and juicy, this very long wine leaves the palate perfumed. Stehly compares this wine to a Musigny in its youthful strictness, and it strikes me as a classic young Clos Saint-Denis that will need time in bottle to expand. Stehly used to work mostly with spicy Cadus barrels for this wine but now uses one-third each Berthomieu and Tonnelerie du Val du Loire for his Clos Saint-Denis, as he feels these barrels are at once sweeter and more delicate.
About the Producer
Georges Lignier is a cousin of Hubert, and while the two estates are clearly separate operations, they do share some of the greatest vineyards in and around Morey-Saint-Denis. That may be where the similarities end, as the delicate, subtle and seductive qualities of Domaine Georges Lignier are a fascinating contrast to the more intense and structured wines of Hubert Lignier. The domaine is led by Benoit Stehly, nephew of Georges Lignier, who worked at the domaine for a decade alongside his uncle, before assuming control of the work in both the vineyard and the cellar in 2008. His approach is very traditional, as he seeks to achieve maximum aromatic concentration, above nearly all other characteristics, including structural or color concentration. To achieve this, techniques such as a slightly later harvest and 80% destemming are employed. At the Villages level, the wines are raised in older barrels, while the 1er Crus see 30% new oak, and the Grand Crus 50% new oak. A vein of seductive elegance runs throughout the full range of wines, inviting a complex and beautiful conversation with each glass. The sensitive palate will thoroughly enjoy this approach, a statement of respect for the grandest of traditions in Burgundy and a sublime expression of the terroir underlying some of the most renowned sites in the Cote de Nuits. Since 2010 the wines are neither fined nor filtered. When it comes to the vineyard holdings, the depth of appellations in both the Premier and Grand Crus is astounding. Overall, the domaine counts sixteen hectares encompassing 50 parcels, across 17 appellations in both white and red. Moreover, these are generally not single rows of rare plots, but substantial parcels within some of the greatest sites in the Cote d’Or. For example, the estate is the largest proprietor of the Grand Cru Clos Saint-Denis, at 1.49 hectares, and controls over a hectare of the Clos de la Roche Grand Cru.
