Wine Advisor
Georg Breuer, Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling 2009
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: David Schildknecht
At 11.5% the lowest in alcohol Breuer single-vineyard wine in many years, their 2009 Rudesheimer Beg Schlossberg Riesling evinces aromas of green tea, lily-of-the-valley, narcissus, and fresh lemon. Infectiously juicy, invigoratingly bright, and persistently, intriguingly floral and herbal, this buoyant Riesling offers further fascination in its finishing deposit of crushed stone, salt, and suggestively crystalline mineral nuance, all vibrantly interacting with citrus and flowers. Polished in texture even if lean in terms of body fat, acidity, and mineral adamancy, it should be worth following for at least 6-8 years and might prove more ingratiating in personality after a few years in bottle. Theresa Breuer underplayed the effects of drought conditions during late summer and early autumn 2009 on the performance of her familys vines in the exposed, rocky Rudesheimer Berg, and, admittedly, there are drip lines in some locations to compensate. But I can easily imagine a connection between that drought and the somewhat peaky acids and strident personalities of many wines in the present collection, and Breuer notes that the slightly lower must weights and consequently lower finished alcohol of several wines probably also reflects at least in part vine stress. (The measured levels of acidity are still lower this year than in the corresponding 2008s.) Picking began already at the end of September and lasted until October 25, under conditions Breuer described as “relatively relaxed.” Incidentally, I re-tasted the top 2008s at this address and would rate the Nonnenberg and Berg Rottland a notch up on my account in issue 187. This is an instance where 2009 is I believe highly unlikely to ever approach the outstanding quality level of its immediate predecessor. (Note: most of the dry-tasting Breuer wines are legally trocken but not labeled as such.) Imported by Classical Wines, Seattle WA 206 547 0255
About the Producer
Founded in 1880 by Bernhard Scholl and Albert Hillebrand as part of a wine shop, the winery has been owned by the Breuer family since the early 20th century. Peter Breuer handed over the estate to his son Georg (1910-1982), from whom the estate now takes its name. Georg expanded the estate and exports, his sons Heinrich and Bernhard Breuer expanded the vineyard to over 15 hectares in the 1980s and finally, with the acquisition of the Nonnenberg monopoly in Rauenthal and further acquisitions, the estate The area reached 34 hectares in 2017. Best location to reach Rüdesheimer and Lauenthaler. From the early 1980s, Bernhard Breuer led the winery to international acclaim. Inspired by high standards, he always advocated the highest possible wine quality and the strong link between wine and culture. After Bernhard Breuer's untimely death in May 2004, his brother Heinrich Breuer devoted himself to running the company together with Bernhard's daughter Theresa Breuer and longtime manager Hermann Schmoranz. Today, the management of the estate is in the hands of Theresa Breuer, with Hermann Schmoranz and Cellar Master Markus Lundén further support. Marlene and Marcia Breuer accompany the winery in its activities both administratively and creatively. Theresa Breuer focuses more on the vineyard and the work done there. A sense of the natural balance of sweetness and acidity, ripeness and aromas dominates the style of wines produced under her influence.
