Fonseca, Guimaraens Vintage Port 2015

robert_parker92

Reviewed by: Mark Squires

The 2015 Guimaraens Vintage Port is a field blend aged for 18 months in used French vats. It comes in at 101 grams per liter of residual sugar. Last seen only as a tank sample in Porto, this was the most forward and impressive of the three Fladgate Partnership 2015s this issue (Croft, Taylor's Vargellas and this). I'm not so sure that is still true. At this point, the Vargellas seems to surpass it fairly easily, showing better structure and depth, despite its initial elegance. This Guimaraens still has the fleshiest feel, if I can put it that way, but it no longer seems to have as much real concentration. Its most notable feature now is its serious backbone. It has tightened and closed, the initial flavor bursts presented in June now having largely subsided. It is rather astringent. By comparison, if anything, the Vargellas has picked up a little weight while this has lost a little flesh. The tannins here, as a result, stand out more. In terms of aging, Winemaker David Guimaraens told me that he "guaranteed" at least 50 years from vintage date. I think he's right, because this has as much power as any of the three, but jeer him around 2065 if he is wrong. Overall, this is still a can't-miss bargain at the price.

robert_parker95

Reviewed by: Mark Squires

The 2015 Guimaraens Vintage Port is a field blend coming in at 101 grams per liter of residual sugar. This was a tank sample when seen, out of barrel, the final blend and awaiting bottling in a couple of weeks. It should be released by the time this article appears. This is the blend Fonseca releases when there is no "classic" vintage declaration. It is usually intended to be approachable a bit earlier, much like a second wine. It seems pretty impressive this year, though. Round, big and lush, it might well be the best of the 2015s from the Fladgate Partnership, especially on the hedonism scale. It also seems to be the most concentrated of the Fladgate Partnership's wines this issue, full bodied and mouth coating. With air, this shows plenty of tannins underneath, too, but the mid-palate depth balances everything perfectly. Underneath that first rush of everything is intensely flavorful and fresh 2015 fruit. That's what this vintage tends to deliver. As relatively fat as this is in its youth, it also seems relatively dry this year. This has a long life ahead and the potential for significant development. It may be approachable on the younger side, but I'd personally like to put it away for at least 15 years (from vintage date). It quite possibly needs considerably more cellar time, particularly depending on how much complexity you demand. (I personally tend to lean to longer in my own tastes, but each to his own.) It should age very well, too. Winemaker David Guimaraens told me that he "guaranteed" at least 50 years from vintage date. I think he's right, but let's check back in with him around 2065 and jeer if he is wrong. This is a can't-miss bargain at the price.

robert_parker92

Reviewed by: Mark Squires

The 2015 Guimaraens Vintage Port is a field blend aged for 18 months in used French vats. It comes in at 101 grams per liter of residual sugar. Last seen only as a tank sample in Porto, this was the most forward and impressive of the three Fladgate Partnership 2015s this issue (Croft, Taylor's Vargellas and this). I'm not so sure that is still true. At this point, the Vargellas seems to surpass it fairly easily, showing better structure and depth, despite its initial elegance. This Guimaraens still has the fleshiest feel, if I can put it that way, but it no longer seems to have as much real concentration. Its most notable feature now is its serious backbone. It has tightened and closed, the initial flavor bursts presented in June now having largely subsided. It is rather astringent. By comparison, if anything, the Vargellas has picked up a little weight while this has lost a little flesh. The tannins here, as a result, stand out more. In terms of aging, Winemaker David Guimaraens told me that he "guaranteed" at least 50 years from vintage date. I think he's right, because this has as much power as any of the three, but jeer him around 2065 if he is wrong. Overall, this is still a can't-miss bargain at the price.