Wine Advisor
Etienne Guigal, Ermitage Ex-Voto Blanc 2012
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Description
L'Ermitage「Ex-Voto」白酒僅在特殊年份生產。它具有非常豐富的香氣和複雜性。鼻子中充滿了合歡花、蜂蜜和烤香的味道。
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Jeb Dunnuck
Released in February and reminiscent of the forward and charming 2007, the 2012 Hermitage Ex Voto Blanc is a huge, sexy beast that has loads of mid-palate density, full-bodied richness and terrific notes of orange marmalade, caramelized peaches, honeysuckle and rose petals. It has moderate acidity, yet I suspect will age on its extract and concentration.
Reviewed by: Jeb Dunnuck
While there was no Ex-Voto Blanc produced in 2011, the 2012 Ermitage Ex-Voto Blanc (which also might not be produced) has plenty of potential. Showing the freshness and purity of the vintage, with clean, pure aromas and flavors of buttered apples, white currants and citrus, it is a medium to full-bodied effort possessing juicy acidity, solid richness and a great finish. A fair step back from the 2010 (although this cuvee continues to gain substance and depth in bottle), it’s nevertheless a superb white. (Not yet released) One of the highlight tastings during my more than two weeks spent working in the Northern Rhone, this set of releases by the father/son pair, Marcel and Philippe Guigal, is about as stacked a lineup as you’ll find anywhere in the world. From their tiny production Cote Roties, to the massive production level Cotes du Rhone (red and white), the quality here is impeccable, as is the attention to detail at every step of the winemaking process. Looking at the vintages reviewed here, reds first, their 2009s are some of the most bombastic, decadent and thrilling wines out there. While they have the over the top richness that allows them to dish out plenty of pleasure even now, they need 4-5 years to integrate their oak and to fully flesh out. Count yourself lucky if you have a few of these hidden in the cellar. More classic in style across the board, the 2010s are more focused and straight, yet similarly concentrated, if not with additional density. They will take slightly longer to come around compared to the 2009s, and certainly offer a more textbook drinking experience. They, too, are at the top of the wine hierarchy. The 2011s show the vintage nicely with slightly more approachable profiles, sweet tannin and brilliant concentration, especially in the vintage. They still have another year in barrel to go, but will certainly be among the top wines of the vintage, have broad drink windows, and should come close to what was achieved in 2009 and 2010, albeit in a different style. Lastly, the 2012s should, in my mind, surpass the 2011s, as they have a smidge more overall density, as well as fabulous purity. Neither the 2011s nor 2012s have the density of the 2010s, nor the sheer wealth of material that’s found in the 2009s. Nevertheless, time will tell, and these wines won’t be bottled for some time yet. Looking at the whites, 2011 and 2012 are similar in quality. Both vintages have beautiful purity, good overall acidity and good concentration, i.e., lots to like. Whether or not we’ll see a 2012 Ermitage Ex-Voto Blanc (which was not produced in 2011) remains to be seen, but what I tasted was certainly promising, if not earth-shattering (as was the 2010!). Importer: Vintus Wines, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000
Reviewed by: Jeb Dunnuck
While still not completely sure if they’ll release it or not, the 2012 Hermitage Ex Voto Blanc (90% Marsanne and 10% Roussanne aged 30 months in new barrels) has brilliant notes of crème brûlée, caramelized fruits, honeysuckle and brioche. Silky, pure and elegant, with classy richness in its full-bodied, textured, balanced personality, it should easily be a mid to upper-90s scoring effort and have two decades of longevity.
Reviewed by: Jeb Dunnuck
Scheduled to be released in February of next year, the 2012 Hermitage Ex Voto Blanc is similar to the classic Hermitage Blanc, yet ratchets the intensity up a notch. Acacia flowers, brioche, caramelized peach, quince and even a kiss of mint all emerge from this full-bodied, layered, concentrated white that has fabulous mid-palate depth and a blockbuster finish. Drink it anytime over the coming two decades.
About the Producer
In 1946, Etienne Guigal founded Château Guigal in the village of Ampuis, the winemaking heart of the Rhône. The village of Ampuis is rich in history, with vineyards that are over 2,400 years old and buildings that still date back to Roman times, and it was here that Etienne Guigal arrived in 1923 at the age of 14. He decided to devote himself to winemaking, which he did for more than 67 years. In 1961, the young Marcel Guigal took over the management of the estate from his father. Thanks to Marcel's efforts, Château Guigal began to acquire some well-known wineries and grew in strength.
