Wine Advisor
Eric Rodez, Cuvee des Grands Vintages Grand Cru Brut NV
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Description
Éric Rodez, along with his wife Martine, are the 8th generation of a family of Champagne makers, with origins dating back from 1757. The Rodez couple have established a 6.12 hectares domaine located in Ambonnay – and Éric himself was the Mayor of the city from 2008 to 2014 ! Subdivided in 35 different parcels with 62% of Pinot Noir and 38% of Chardonnay, planted in fairly high altitudes (130 meters), this is an ideal set up to grow outstanding Pinot Noir. After a long time working for Champagne Krug as an oenolgist, Éric undoubtably acquired an experience and outstanding know-how in blending. The 9th generation of the Rodez family – Mickaël and Aurélie have recently joined the estate, learning from their parents about this strong heritage. A incredible blend of different vintages from 1998 to 2018, vinified mostly in oak barrels (90%) to add complexity. Coming from 100% Grand Cru parcels of Ambonnay, with usually 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir.
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Josh Raynolds
(70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, all barrel-fermented; 4 g/l dosage; made from fruit grown in Ambonnay and aged on its lees for eight years before disgorgement; L09-13): Bright yellow-gold. An intriguingly perfumed nose evokes poached pear, orange zest, sweet butter and honey, along with a smoky quality and a chalky mineral overtone. Chewy, very deep citrus and orchard fruit flavors are complicated by suggestions of toasted brioche, white truffle and candied fig. Finishes very long and smoky, with resonating floral and mineral qualities. I'd serve this complex Champagne, which comprises wines from 15 different vintages dating back to 1995, with an indulgent, buttery poultry or shellfish dish.
Reviewed by: Josh Raynolds
(70% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay, all from Ambonnay): Bright yellow-gold. Sexy floral, mineral-accented aromas of poached pear, blood orange and nectarine, with buttered toast and iodine overtones. Juicy, penetrating, pure orchard fruit and red berry flavors show impressive depth and slowly building spiciness, with no rough edges. The mineral quality comes back strong on the strikingly long finish, which features a sexy rose pastille nuance and a hint of anise.
About the Producer
Eric Rodez has been producing champagne in the eighth generation since 1984. Before taking up his work as a recolte manipulant, he gained experience in Burgundy and as cellar master at Krug, where he was responsible for the Grand Cuvée. During this time, the foundation was laid for what particularly distinguishes his champagnes today: he has mastered the complex assemblage technique like hardly anyone else. Until the end of 2018, he was also mayor of Ambonnay for more than ten years and is committed to his region as a whole by trying to promote quality in viticulture in the Champagne region. For some time now, he has been supported by his son Mikhael, who is responsible for the vineyards. Mikhael was also the one who urged Eric to vinify single vineyards. This required some persuasion, as nothing is blended here; it was unusual for Eric not to intervene. Nevertheless, these champagnes also turned out to be a great success: Masterpieces and filigree and finesse.
