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Reviewed by: Monica Larner
The 2009 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Mate come from 35-year-old vines planted at 350 meters above sea level on mixed sand and clay soils. Gianluca says this is always the first vineyard to flower each year. This expression is without a doubt the more masculine of the two, with bold lines filled tight with black fruit, plum, licorice, tobacco and leather. However, the wine is not all muscle and brawn. It, too, offers a beautiful floral note of pressed red rose that lingers long on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2035. Elio Grasso and his son Gianluca have created one of the finest vineyards and wineries in the Langhe today. The energy shared by this dynamic father and son team demonstrates that no ambition is too far stretched or lofty - as long as there is a will for hard work. Investments made over the last decade include a state-of-the-art winery complete with an underground cellar, buried 45 meters below the vineyards. Recently, Gianluca says his passion has turned to vineyard work: "The point is not being the greatest wine producer. It is to be the greatest producer of grapes." Various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Langdon Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; tel. (213) 483-5900; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA; tel. (800) 862-4585; Admirality Beverage Co., Portland, OR; tel. (503) 265-3555
About the Producer
Elio Grasso’s History Born within an old family of Monforte d’Alba with substantial vineyards in the prestigious parts of the town, Grasso may seem destined for a career as a Barolo producer . But instead he chose a different path, at least in the early stages of adult life, choosing to work in the world of finance and living an urban existence that was decidedly different from that of the rural world in which he was born and raised. The wines of Elio Grasso The call of the land, however, eventually proved strong, and the return to Monforte d’Alba was probably only a matter of time. And what he returned to was in fact an impressive patrimony: 18 hectares of vineyards that include first-rate sites such as Chiniera , Casa Matè , and Runcot . Grasso, in fact, just in 1978, decided to ferment and age on his own the grapes of his best plots and was a pioneer in selling both a regular Barolo and also a series of crus . As a producer, Grasso has always been attentive to tradition, but, given the important experiences linked to the numerous generations of his family in the area, he has never wanted to radically transform his wines: both Chiniera and Casa Matè are aged in barrels; only the Runcot , a Riserva , ages in small barrels. Innovation, on the other hand, is represented by two other wines from the line: the excellent Barbera Martina aged in barrels and Educato , a Chardonnay fermented in barrels.