Wine Advisor
Elio Grasso, Barolo Gavarini Chiniera 2003
View analysis
Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2003 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera is an elegant, perfumed wine that flows seamlessly onto the palate with remarkable length and purity. Although it doesn’t have the delineation of the finest vintages, this is a very strong effort, with everything beautifully kept in balance, including a very elegant use of oak. While I typically prefer the Ginestra here, in 2003 I have a slight preference for the Chiniera as it has retained a touch more freshness. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017. Elio Grasso is one of those producers who for some reason doesn’t seem to receive the recognition he deserves. While that is unfortunate, it does mean the wines are often available at very reasonable prices. Various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Langdon Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; Tel. (213) 483-5900; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA; Admirality Beverage Co. Columbia Distributing Company, Portland, Oregon; Tel. (503) 289-9600
About the Producer
Elio Grasso’s History Born within an old family of Monforte d’Alba with substantial vineyards in the prestigious parts of the town, Grasso may seem destined for a career as a Barolo producer . But instead he chose a different path, at least in the early stages of adult life, choosing to work in the world of finance and living an urban existence that was decidedly different from that of the rural world in which he was born and raised. The wines of Elio Grasso The call of the land, however, eventually proved strong, and the return to Monforte d’Alba was probably only a matter of time. And what he returned to was in fact an impressive patrimony: 18 hectares of vineyards that include first-rate sites such as Chiniera , Casa Matè , and Runcot . Grasso, in fact, just in 1978, decided to ferment and age on his own the grapes of his best plots and was a pioneer in selling both a regular Barolo and also a series of crus . As a producer, Grasso has always been attentive to tradition, but, given the important experiences linked to the numerous generations of his family in the area, he has never wanted to radically transform his wines: both Chiniera and Casa Matè are aged in barrels; only the Runcot , a Riserva , ages in small barrels. Innovation, on the other hand, is represented by two other wines from the line: the excellent Barbera Martina aged in barrels and Educato , a Chardonnay fermented in barrels.
