Wine Advisor
Elio Altare, Barolo Brunate 2009
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Reviewed by: Monica Larner
The 2009 Barolo Brunate immediately catapults you into a realm of elegance and finesse that reaches the divine. The 2011 vintage will be the last edition of this wine because Altare lost his lease in this celebrated vineyard. Instead, he will start producing a Cannubi expression to be released in two years’ time. The Brunate is generous in fruit and texture from the outset. The wine grabs your attention thanks to the thick layers of dark fruit, spice, leather and tar that run through it. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035. Elio Altare is never a man to mince words. He tells the rags-to-riches story of Barolo with conviction, passion and firsthand knowledge. La Morra went from having a handful of farmers (five or six) back in the early 1970s to dozens of estates today. Back then, grape growers were considered so low in social rank, many could not find local women to marry. They imported wives from poorer regions of southern Italy, like Calabria and Basilicata, to live in the Langhe. “C’era la fame qui,” he says. (“We were starving.”) From his panoramic porch overlooking the Frazione Annunziata section of La Morra, he sighs, “Just look at us now.” He tells the story of his first trip to France: “It blew my mind that producers in Burgundy were buying Porsches and yachts with just a few hectares of vine while we were dirt poor.” Highly influenced by that trip (his use of French barrique for aging Nebbiolo is a prime example), Altare returned to Italy and vowed to shake things up. He most certainly did. Various American importers, including: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Estate Wines, San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2009 Barolo Brunate is a true standout. Readers who want to understand why Brunate is one of Barolo's great vineyards need to taste the Arborina and Brunate side by side. Here, the wine's layered, vivid personality stands in stark contrast to the other 2009s. Sweet balsamic notes develop in the glass, but today the 2009 is of course quite primary and in need of serious cellaring. The prominent 2009 tannins are there, but the fruit is so deep and rich as to nearly bury them.
About the Producer
Elio and Lucia’s eldest daughter Silvia has been fully involved in the winery since early 2000, while Elena, their youngest daughter, moved to Germany where she is now running a small wine import company. Elio, his wife Lucia, Silvia and the entire staff follow every single aspect of the work: in the vineyards from pruning to harvest, in the cellar from winemaking to sales, logistics, office work and marketing. The Altare family was originally from the town of Dogliani before buying the farm in La Morra. Back then, the estate covered 5 hectares of nebbiolo, barbera and dolcetto vineyards, along with some peach, hazelnut and apple trees. Those were times when orchards gave higher yields and more profits than vineyards. Back then it wasn’t easy, given the economic crisis that lasted for years. Elio, along with other friends, decided to learn more about winemaking by traveling beyond the borders of Piemonte, trying to learn from the success that other regions were enjoying. Up to today we farm about 10 hectares with an average production of 70,000 bottles.
