Wine Advisor
Durfort Vivens 2009
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Delicious notes of black olives, unsmoked cigar tobacco, black currants and black cherries jump from the glass of this plump, aromatic, silky, medium to full-bodied Margaux. One of the finest Durfort Vivens yet produced, it is filled with purity and elegance. Enjoy it over the next 15-20 years.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at a negociant. This is a little tight on the nose, but I like the purity and the definition here and unlike in recent years there is no sign of any under-ripeness (an nor should there be you may argue.) Blackberry, plum, cedar and a touch of graphite. The palate is medium-bodied, plump on the entry and then obvious over-maturity on the finish that lacks freshness. This is so disappointing after a pleasurable nose. Tasted March 2010.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Normally the proprietor at this estate refuses to let me taste, so I was surprised when he did so this year. The 2009 Durfort Vivens is an attractive, soft, velvety-textured wine revealing a hint of tapenade intermixed with black currant and blackberry fruit. Medium-bodied and elegant with the silkiness and precision that make this vintage so alluring, it should drink well for 15-20 years. (Tasted once.)
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Tasted at the Union de Grand Cru in London. The 2009 is missing some intensity and harmony on the nose with grassy notes instead of the sensual fruit that its peers show. The palate is better, although there is a touch of greenness on the finish. Perplexing. Tasted October 2011.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
Served blind at the Southwold 2009 tasting. I really want to find a great Durfort-Vivens but blind tasting ensures that the failings of this Margaux stick out like a sore thumb. This has a funky nose that is a little bretty and that subdues the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with raw tannins. This is very green and vegetal on the finish. Tasted January 2013.
Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
Delicious notes of black olives, unsmoked cigar tobacco, black currants and black cherries jump from the glass of this plump, aromatic, silky, medium to full-bodied Margaux. One of the finest Durfort Vivens yet produced, it is filled with purity and elegance. Enjoy it over the next 15-20 years.
Reviewed by: Ian d'Agata
Inky ruby. Initially quite herbal and woodsy on the nose, but opened to offer blackcurrant and plum aromas with strong hints of tar and ground coffee. Suave, fine-grained and vibrant, but the inky black fruit, cola and herbal flavors currently lack generosity. Durfort-Vivens is never made in a particularly fat or full style, and though this finishes classy and long, with excellent energy and palate-coating persistence and perfume, this '09 will really need at least five or six years of aging to gain sweetness and flesh. This has the potential to make a very good bottle, but it's as tough as nails now.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
Bright red-ruby. Slightly peppery aromas of sour cherry, tobacco, menthol and herbs. Juicy, penetrating and rather light in body, with sound acidity and good floral and herbal cut giving life to the middle palate. A bit green and dry, but this nicely delineated claret should drink well over the next 10 to 15 years.
About the Producer
Chateau Durfort-Vivens, located in the Margaux appellation of Bordeaux, France, is a Second Growth in the 1855 Classification. It is now owned by the Lurton family, which also owns a number of other Bordeaux estates, including Chateau Brane-Cantenac and Chateau Climens, a Premier Cru in Sauternes. Originally founded by the Durfort de Duras family in the 14th century, Château Duhall was placed at the top of Château Lafite-Rothschild's wine classification list in 1787 when Thomas Jefferson, the American ambassador to France, encountered the wines of Château Duhall on his visit to Bordeaux and was so captivated by them that he placed Château Duhall at the top of his wine classification list. （In 1824, Viscount Robert Labat de Vivens inherited the estate. In 1855, Château Duhall was named a second growth. In 1937, Château Dujo was acquired by Château Margaux because of the quality and recognition of its wines. In 1961, Lucien Lurton became the sole owner of Château Dujo and passed it on to his son, Gonzague Lurton, in 1972, who resigned from the bank in 1992 to take up the position of manager. He built a new cellar and installed a number of temperature-controlled barrels and concrete fermenters. In 2009, Château Dujo began experimenting with biodynamic farming, which was fully transformed in 2013. In 2016, Château Dujo became the first Grand Cru in the Margaux region to receive this certification. The vineyards of Château Dujo are located in the hills and cover 65 hectares, 55 of which are planted with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc at a density of 6,600-7,000 vines per hectare, with newer vines planted at a higher density of 8,300 vines per hectare. The new vines are planted at a higher density of 8,300 vines per hectare. The soil is composed mainly of deep gravels formed in the Quaternary period, which are poor and have excellent drainage properties, allowing the vines to take root deeply and producing fruit with intense and concentrated flavor. The vineyard enjoys a mild and smooth climate influenced by the Atlantic Ocean, the Gironde River and the forest vegetation. The vineyards are managed with respect for the terroir and the natural environment, and the winery is constantly searching for more appropriate planting and management methods. The micro-ecological balance of the soil is maintained through tilling and the use of organic fertilizers to allow the vines to reach their full potential. The grapes are harvested by hand after ripening, sifted, destemmed and broken, and then fermented in wooden vats and concrete tanks. In order to fully interpret the terroir, the winery vinifies the fruit from different plots individually. After fermentation, the wine is transferred to French oak barrels for maturation. The ageing period for the main label wines is around 18 months, with the percentage of new barrels generally ranging between 45% and 60%, while the secondary label wines are generally matured for 12 months, with the percentage of new barrels usually 20%.
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