Wine Advisor
Domenico Clerico, Barolo Aeroplan Servaj 2006
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2006 Barolo Aeroplan Servaj is a new Barolo Clerico is making from a rented vineyard in Serralunga opposite Cascina Francia. A core of bright, fresh fruit gives flows from the glass with notable energy, focus and length. The wine seems to gain volume on the mid-palate, before the potent Serralunga tannins come to life on the impeccable, round finish. Since Clerico doesn't have full control of the vineyard, yields are a touch higher than in the estate-owned parcels that are the source of his other Barolos, and the Aeroplan Servaj comes across as a touch more lithe than the other 2006s Barolos in this lineup. I tasted an approximate blend, in steel, awaiting bottling. The Aeroplan Servaj sees 80% new oak, which is higher than the level Clerico is using for his Pajana and Ciabot these days. The wine's colorful name derives from a nickname Clerico's father had given him in childhood, the “wild airplane.”
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2006 Barolo Aeroplan Servaj is a new Barolo Clerico is making from a rented vineyard in Serralunga opposite Cascina Francia. A core of bright, fresh fruit flows from the glass with notable energy, focus and length. The wine seems to gain volume on the mid-palate, before the potent Serralunga tannins come to life on the impeccable, round finish. Since Clerico doesn’t have full control of the vineyard, yields are a touch higher than in the estate-owned parcels that are the source of his other Barolos, and the Aeroplan Servaj comes across as a touch more lithe than the other 2006s Barolos in this lineup. I tasted an approximate blend, in steel, awaiting bottling. The Aeroplan Servaj sees 80% new oak, which is higher than the level Clerico is using for his Pajana and Ciabot these days. The wine’s colorful name derives from a nickname Clerico’s father had given him in childhood, the “wild airplane.” Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. It’s great to see Domenico Clerico doing better after what has been a very difficult struggle with illness. My recent tasting with Clerico was amazing, as I had a chance to survey all of his Barolos in verticals covering vintages 2004 through 2008, which provided quite a bit of perspective on the relative qualities of this series of important vintages. I have done similar tastings here once – sometimes twice – a year for many years, and have always needed a bit of a break afterwards, as Clerico’s wines are massively tannic and structured when young, which, when coupled with Monforte’s trademark acidity, can tire the palate. Not this time. What has changed? For starters, the move toward longer fermentations/macerations and the reduction in the use of French oak have begun to yield wines of incomparable finesse and elegance. Tasting the vintages side by side, it is apparent that 2004 – as great as those wines are – represents the end of an era at Clerico. The 2005s signal a move towards a more elegant style (much of that is due to the vintage itself, rather than to changes in winemaking) but it is the 2006s that show the first true results of the new approach, and the wines are simply breathtaking. Clerico’s 2007s, however, may be even better as they are shaping up to be profound, utterly mind-bending Barolos. And as for the 2008s, they are still young, but are so promising I can hardly wait to taste them again. For readers who are curious, the 2004s here are superb but are shutting down rapidly in bottle. The 2005s continue to put on weight, yet they lack the sheer stuffing and depth of the 2006s. The 2007s are rich, sensual, perfumed and utterly thrilling, while the 2008 are a touch more transparent and classic. Watching these wines evolve over the coming years will be fascinating. Sadly, long-time cellarmaster Massimo Conterno recently left the winery after spending nearly his entire career at Clerico’s side. Conterno is like a son to Clerico and his departure remains a painful loss. Still, change is often invigorating, and I can only hope that will be the case here as well. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2006 Barolo Aeroplan Servaj is a new Barolo from Clerico. The vineyard is in Badarina, just opposite Cascina Francia in Serralunga. This is the first opportunity readers will have to taste a Barolo from Serralunga by Clerico, a grower whose wines have always been virtually inseparable for their connection to Monforte. The Aeroplan Servaj is a beautiful, sensual wine graced with exquisite layers of dark, perfumed fruit. This is a decidedly elegant, feminine Barolo from Serralunga that, while beautiful, only captures a fraction of what this vineyard is ultimately capable of. Clerico and his team faced significant challenges when they took over the farming of the vineyard in 2006, down to being threatened at gunpoint by the owner when he saw how much fruit was being dropped in the vineyard! Based on the future vintages I have tasted in barrel, Aeroplan Servaj is a work in progress moving in the right direction. The wine’s colorful name, ‘wild airplane’ is a nickname given to the young, rambunctious Clerico by his father. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2026. It’s great to see Domenico Clerico pretty much back to his normal self after a bout with illness over the last few years. Despite having made so many dazzling wines in the past, I can’t help thinking Clerico’s best Baroli may still lie ahead. Maceration times have been gradually lengthened, the use of new French oak has come down in most of the wines and there are rumblings that larger casks are on the way. As always, I tasted a large selection of wines during my recent visit to the estate, including 4-5 vintages of each of the Baroli. Clerico’s 2006s are emotional, moving wines that are living up to the praise I bestowed upon them last year. The 2007s are stratospheric, while the 2008s are developing very well, albeit in a more classic style than the decidedly exuberant 2007s. In 2008 Clerico has a Barolo from his vineyard in Bussia that is still being raised separately and may be bottled on its own. Based on multiple tastings, it is a special Barolo. It’s still early for the 2009s, but today they are less viscerally thrilling, pretty much in line with the way most wines of that year are showing right now. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; tel. (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; tel. (630) 422-1119
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2006 Barolo Aeroplan Servaj is a new Barolo from Clerico. The vineyard is in Badarina, just opposite Cascina Francia in Serralunga. This is the first opportunity readers will have to taste a Barolo from Serralunga by Clerico, a grower whose wines have always been virtually inseparable for their connection to Monforte. The Aeroplan Servaj is a beautiful, sensual wine graced with exquisite layers of dark, perfumed fruit. This is a decidedly elegant, feminine Barolo from Serralunga that, while beautiful, only captures a fraction of what this vineyard is ultimately capable of. Clerico and his team faced significant challenges when they took over the farming of the vineyard in 2006, down to being threatened at gunpoint by the owner when he saw how much fruit was being dropped in the vineyard! Based on the future vintages I have tasted in barrel, Aeroplan Servaj is a work in progress moving in the right direction. The wine's colorful name, ‘wild airplane' is a nickname given to the young, rambunctious Clerico by his father.
About the Producer
Clerico Barolo is one of the pioneers of the emerging movement to improve the winemaking of modern Barolo. His wines are round and concentrated, with more fruity aromas, bright ruby red wine with a mulberry taste, reminiscent of burgundy. The Estherso Grand Cru in the Roots, and it is unexpected that these wines are Barolo wines made from Nebbiolo grapes. Clerico was the first state-of-the-art winery in the Barolo region to use the single-campus concept, bottling the wines separately from the different pockets. Let the wine tell the characteristics of the land, so that the wine produced has a unique personality. Clerico believes that the timing of the grape harvest is a very important factor, picking it earlier than other wineries, because he believes that the ripening of tannins is more important than the ripening of grape sweetness. High sweetness only produces wine with a strong alcohol taste. High-quality tannin is the quality guarantee of high-level wine. He especially emphasizes acidity, because acidity will make the wine have a perfect and strong skeleton. Clerico's flagship wine, Cristina, is stored in large oak barrels for 3 years, small oak barrels for 2 years, and 5 years in the bottle for a total of 10 years. Fascinating, is a rare good wine, its wine is to commemorate the unfortunate death of the owner's daughter Cristina when she was 7 years old, and the best grapes are specially selected to make this Percristina wine to commemorate the beloved daughter. Clerico Barolo has been praised as the most representative heavyweight winery in Barolo by virtue of its continuous introduction of amazing wines over the years, and it is also highly praised by wine critics. winery.
