Wine Advisor
Comte Georges de Vogue, Bourgogne Blanc 2009
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The rarely seen 2009 Bourgogne Blanc is made from young Chardonnay vines planted in Musigny. The 2009 impresses for its textural elegance. Lemon, pastry, white flowers, creme brulee and hints of tropical fruit wrap around the finish. A subtle note of minerality acts to balance some of the wine’s more overt tendencies. This is a lovely effort. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Atlanta Wholesale Wines, Atlanta, GA; tel. (404) 696-9440; C?Est Vin, District of Columbia; tel. (703) 243-3559; Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
The Bourgogne Blanc 2009 has a deep silvery/golden hue. The nose has developed a beeswax and dried honey tincture that is well defined, touches of Turkish Delight revealed with 15-20 minutes aeration in the glass. Then it mutates again with pine needles and even fino-like scents! How mercurial! The palate has a waxy texture, almost Rhône-like in style as I remarked to Jean-Luc Pepin sitting next to me. There is an appealing resinous note here, the acidity a little lower than other vintages but with a lovely tangy lemongrass-tinged finish. Drink this now and over the next 5-6 years.
About the Producer
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue is one of the most important estates in the Chambello-Musigny appellation, thanks to its stake in important vineyards. The Comte de Vogue is, as the English writer Charles Dickens once said, "as historic and admirable as a great mountain". The vineyard of the Comte de Vugo covers approximately 12.5 hectares, of which about 7 hectares are located in the Mussini vineyard (70% of the entire top vineyard) and about 2.5 hectares in the nearby Bernemar region. The grapes are all hand-harvested and the vast majority are destemmed (although in 1990 100% of the stems were retained). The wines are first fermented in vats, then aged for 18 months in small oak barrels (40% to 45% renewed), clarified with egg whites and lightly filtered before bottling. The wines are extremely intense and full-bodied, which is not surprising given the extremely low yields and the limestone soils of the Mussini vineyards. The wines of the Comtes de Vugo are not meant to be tasted young, and in outstanding vintages these very long-lived wines usually require 10 to 15 years of ageing. However, it is worth noting that the 2002 vintage of Musigny Old Vine is of particularly high quality. It has intense aromas of red cherry, spice and candied raspberry aromas, with a hint of oak. This noble, full-bodied, refined wine has fragrant floral flavours with fruity notes of red and black fruits. A more feminine wine than the bold, chewy, highly robust 1990 vintage, this is a work of art with delicate tannins.
