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Tasting notes

Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The limited cuvee of 100% old vine Roussanne (50% vinified in barrel and 50% in tank), the 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape blanc Vieilles Vignes is an extraordinary wine. Since the debut vintage in 1986, I have been unable to figure out how to predict this cuvee’s aging potential, but I tend to agree with most sommeliers who feel this wine needs to be drunk in its first 4-6 years of life, then not touched again until age 12-15. It is so amazing, I usually drink it as quickly as I can get my hands on a few bottles. The sensational 2006 possesses a wonderful honeysuckle note interwoven with marmalade, tropical fruit, peaches, and buttery pastry characteristics, and zesty acidity despite a thick, full-bodied, rich texture. It is difficult to find a better white Chateauneuf du Pape than Beaucastel. Much like their reds, their whites are made in a style that is atypical for the appellation. It is put through full malolactic, and one-third is barrel fermented, then blended with the two-thirds that is aged in tank. Extraordinarily rich and honeyed, it is ideal for drinking with intensely flavored culinary dishes. Beaucastel and its subsidiary wines marketed under the Perrin et Fils moniker are consistently among the bright shining stars of France. I have been visiting this estate for nearly thirty years, and over that time I have seen all the elements of what makes wines great – an incredible respect for the vineyards, a conscientious, uncompromising work ethic, and extraordinary passion for gentle handling of fruit from their sites. Brothers Jean-Pierre and Francois Perrin seem to be gradually inching closer to retirement as their sons take more and more of a front row seat in the running of this outstanding estate. This is a marvelous portfolio of wines, from the extraordinary values, to the top-end world classics. While one could say this is as traditionally run estate as can be found in western Europe, the Perrins are remarkably flexible if they sense that quality can be improved. Quality rises dramatically with the Perrin et Fils cuvees. The Cotes du Rhone Reserve wines are produced primarily from the estate vineyards at Grand Prebois and Vinsobres, with some purchased fruit from such Cotes du Rhone appellations as St.-Gervais. Marc Perrin, who is responsible for winemaking at Perrin et Fils, seems to go from strength to strength with this line of wines, which includes negociant bottlings as well as some from estate vineyards in Vinsobres. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Reviewed by: Robert M. Parker, Jr.
The very limited production and single greatest white wine of the southern Rhone is their 100% Roussanne cuvee from 50+-year-old vines, the 2006 Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes white. This is a sensational wine, with notes of lychee, marmalade, and exotic fruits such as mango in addition to more classic notes such as poached pear and buttered brioche. The wine is full-bodied, unctuously textured, but not heavy or plodding. This is a masterpiece of white winemaking that is full-bodied, powerful, and should drink beautifully for 4-6 years before it heads into unknown territory. My guess is that this will rebound in about 12-15 years time and last for 25-30 years. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Reviewed by: Josh Raynolds
Yellow-gold. Smoky pear and apricot aromas are deepened by fig, cured meat and anise. Rich and fleshy in texture, offering sweet orchard and pit fruit flavors along with candied flowers and licorice, and picking up subtle baking spices on the finish. There's outstanding energy and cut for such depth and palate-staining concentration. The yield here was a meager 17 hectoliters per hectare, according to Perrin.
About the Producer
Chateau de Beaucastel (also known as Château Beaucastel) is located in the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation, one of the most famous sub-appellations of the Rhone Valley, France. Founded in the 16th century by the Beaucastel family, the estate was acquired in 1909 by the Perrin Family, currently owned by Charles Perrin. Jacques Perrin was a pioneer in organic farming in the 1960s and in 1974 he adopted the principles of "biodynamic" management of the vineyards, going against the trend of the time. He was convinced that respecting the nature of the terroir was the right way to go. Mourvedre, a native grape variety that has been present in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation since ancient times, has long been abandoned by most people because it is not easy to grow. Jacques Perrin has worked tirelessly to cultivate Mourvedre, restoring the original flavour of Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines and enhancing their value. Jacques Perrin's red wines are made from Mourvèdre, the rare grape variety from which they derive their classic flavour. When Jacques Perrin died in 1978, the estate was managed by Jacques' sons, Jean-Pierre and Francois. Under the management of the two brothers, the winery has flourished. Today, the affairs of the estate have been taken over by Jean-Pierre's son, Charles Perrin. The vineyards of Château de Beaucastel have a rare terroir - the underlying limestone is covered with rounded pebbles, clay and gravel, with good drainage, which allows the vines to have deep, strong roots. At the same time, the Mistral winds bring a cool microclimate to the vineyards, which favours the growth of the grapes. Organic fertilizers are used exclusively in the vineyard. The vineyards are still planted with the 13 grape varieties approved by the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Appellation of Origin, including Mourvèdre, Grenache Noir, Syrah, Cinsault and Counoise for the red grapes and Roussanne and Grenache Blanc for the white grapes. Grenache Blanc.) Château de Beaucastel produces both red and white wines, with the Mourvedre grape predominating in the red wines and the Roussanne grape in the white wines. Some of the better known wines are the Chateau de Beaucastel Hommage a Jacques Perrin (Chateauneuf-du-Pape), the Chateau de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Châteauneuf-du-Pape), the Chateau de Beaucastel Nouvelle Vague (Châteauneuf-du-Pape) and the Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Châteauneuf-du-Pape), Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and the Coudoulet de Beaucastel, Cotes-Du-Rhone. The most noteworthy of these is the Château Beaucastel Salute to Perrin dry red wine. The weather was perfect in 1989 and the quality of the Mourvèdre harvested at the estate was outstanding. The brothers Jean-Pierre and François, the owners, decided to make a special wine in memory of their father. They named the wine Château de Beaucastel Tribute to Perrin, using Mourvèdre from old vines as the main grape. These old vines produce very low yields of ripe, concentrated fruit. For the past 30 years, Château de Beaucastel has been considered one of the greatest wineries in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape region. Today, under the stewardship of Charles Perrin and his siblings, Château de Beaucastel is creating new glories and continuing the legacy of the Rhone Valley.