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Reviewed by: William Kelley
When Cyril Brun was briefed to recreate this iconic cuvée, he struggled to achieve the plenitude and drama he was looking for. Then, he dug in the Heidsieck archives and discovered, as he tells it, that the famous vintages of Charlie, while vintaged on paper, actually contained reserve wines. Brun therefore gave himself carte blanche to draw on the house's best lots to put together the inaugural NV Champagne Charlie, based on the 2016 vintage but incorporating fully 78% reserve wines dating back two decades. Bursting with aromas of golden orchard fruit, brioche, honeycomb, peaches, spices and buttery pastry, it's full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a layered core of fruit, racy acids and a beautifully refined pinpoint mousse. Some 52% of the blend is Chardonnay, with Brun looking for ripe, exotic Chardonnay to complement more tensile lots of Pinot Noir. It's a compelling, flamboyant wine—the only thing that may make consumers smart is the price.
About the Producer
Charles Heidsieck Champagne was established in 1851 by the nephew of Piper-Heidsieck's owner. Charles Heidsieck's grand-uncle founded the Champagne Heidsieck et Cie House and Charles grew up in the midst of grapes, loved by his mother, Emilie Henriot, and his sisters, in a family ruled by Reims traditions. Charles became a traveller and free-spirited, smooth-talking gentleman entrepreneur, focused on his champagne business. With his distinguished charm and knack for business, he captivated America becoming a prominent figure of fashionable society in just a few months. Charles focused on making a name for himself and for his champagne - Champagne Charlie. Charles Heidsieck is one of the most awarded champagnes in the world. Its Cellar Masters have been recognized no less than twelve times as “Sparkling Winemaker of the Year” over an eighteen-year period. The Champagnes themselves have also won many awards in competitions with the Brut Reserve having wone over 20 medals since 2012.