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Reviewed by: William Kelley
The first wine ever produced under the Boërl & Kroff label was the 1995 Brut, and it is still an immensely youthful, concentrated wine that I believe could withstand comparison with many of this overlooked vintage's finest efforts. Wafting from the glass with aromas of iodine, warm bread, beeswax, English walnuts, dried orange peel and dried white flowers, it's full-bodied, satiny and muscular, with considerable chalky structure, lively acids and a long, vinous finish. While this displays some gently oxidative elements, that only brings additional complexity, and the 1995 still has the better part of two decade's longevity ahead of it.
About the Producer
Champagne Boërl & Kroff’s story began over 20 years ago. A passion for beautiful bottles and a great friendship are at the origin of this champagne which became unique and unparalleled. In the middle of the 1990s, Patrick Sabaté and Stéphane Sésé, friends since childhood , launched a major challenge: To create a champagne with a distinct aroma and with a complexity and intensity known only in the best wines of Burgundy and Pomerol. The story begins in Aube, near Urville. Michel Drappier helps them rise to this challenge by offering the two childhood friends, the fruit of three high quality plots planted mainly with Pinots Noirs. Patrick and Stéphane were eager for a champagne with a most distinct aromatic expression, with an unparalleled DNA, that would give them the same sensory astonishment that they had experienced upon first tasting the best red Bordeaux and Burgundy. The creators of the Boërl & Kroff Champagne emphasized the intense and subtle characteristics that are the strength of wines grown with patience. Boërl & Kroff pushed the existing boundaries with the help of Michel Drappier to develop a champagne that is both balanced and powerful with a very unusual aromatic profile that greatly exceeded their expectations. The first Boërl & Kroff magnum emerged in 1995. An elixir that has become one of the greatest wines falling within a hedonistic approach. A champagne recognised by the greatest experts... Christie’s was right about recording Boërl & Kroff to its largest sales catalogue. Big wine enthusiasts quickly followed by turning the brand into a legend in the world of champagne with the highest auctions recorded in 2015. Boërl & Kroff is appreciate from collectors, wine connoiseurs and now investors.