Wine Advisor
Biondi Santi, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1997
View analysis
Description
Produced for the first time in 1888, the Biondi-Santi Riserva was the first Brunello di Montalcino in history, and even today it is an extraordinary event when a new vintage of Riserva is announced at Tenuta Greppo, the Biondi-Santi main estate. Renowned for its extraordinary longevity, this rare wine has been released only 40 times from 1888 till today and each production is extremely limited. Riserva is traditionally produced with grapes coming from only the oldest vineyards, of more than 25 years of age.
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Monica Larner
This older release is paired with the 2011 Riserva in a special packaging effort now proposed by the new management team at Tenuta Greppo. The Biondi-Santi 1997 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva was never previously reviewed; therefore, I am very excited to add an official record of this stunning wine to our database. This vintage delivers structure and age-worthy intensity that should carry it forward successfully for more years ahead. However, if you decide to pop the cork now, rest assured that this excellent Brunello has now entered its prime drinking window. The bouquet is polished and fine, with wild fruit aromas that segue to balsam herb and licorice. The finish is long and extremely polished. This is a real beauty.
Reviewed by: Monica Larner
A small number of bottles (between 400 and 450) have been set aside for Biondi-Santi's successful late-release program. To be reintroduced to the market in March 2025, we have the very exciting 1997 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. This vintage is remembered as a very warm one, and indeed, it can be seen as a precursor to some of the more recent hot vintages (like 2003 and 2017) that are often cited in discussions on climate change. In all, the 1997 vintage gave uneven results across the appellation. However, this wine crafted by the Biondi Santi family comes off as robust but elegant at the same time. It opens to a more saturated color and shows dark aromas of plum, tobacco, licorice root and camphor ash. I also get a sweet tone of honey or roasted chestnut. It closes with medium-plus intensity, resolved tannins and a characteristic pinch of acidity.
About the Producer
The history of the estate dates back to 1840, when Caterina Santi, the daughter of the Santi family, married Jacopo Biondi of the Biondi family, and the two families' premises were merged. The two families merged and began to cultivate the grapes and make the wine that became Château Biondi. The winery was later taken over by Ferruccio Biondi Santi, son of Caterina and Jacopo, who officially changed the name of the estate to Biondi Santi. The Brunello variety is essentially a clone of Sangiovese, but is larger, more tannic and produces a more layered wine. The complexity and elegance of this variety, which is suitable for long-term ageing, makes it a masterpiece of Italian fine wine. The vineyards of Biante Sandi are located at the highest altitude in the hills of Montalcino, with frequent fog on the hillside, which gives them the advantage of not only very good land but also altitude. All Brunello di Montalcino wines are made from grapes sourced from vines that are over 10 years old (25 years old for the Reserve) in the vineyard. After fermentation, the wines are first stored in Slovenian oak barrels for three years and then aged in the bottle for six months before being released for sale.
