Bibi Graetz, Testamatta 2022

robert_parker95

Reviewed by: Monica Larner

Made with fruit from all north-facing vineyard sites (mostly in Olmo with a little bit from Lamole), the Bibi Graetz 2022 Testamatta is engineered to showcase the power of Sangiovese. Indeed, many parcels were recently removed from the blend in order to focus on fruit concentration and elegance. This was a hot growing season, but Bibi says that 2021 was also very warm (with more violent heat spikes during the summer). He lost a small percentage (about 7%) of fruit in 2022 and claims to have had an abundance of fruit in the challenging 2023 vintage. This wine is packed with dense berry fruit, blueberry, spice and soft earth. Bright acidic freshness adds backbone to Sangiovese.

robert_parker94

Reviewed by: Monica Larner

With fruit picked at 400 meters in elevation, the Bibi Graetz 2022 Testamatta shows primary intensity and good tension with red fruits and cherry. There is a little more concentration here and more tannic bite, and the wine will need more time to resolve and find balance. All of Bibi's wines are made at his new winery located in a former hotel off the main square in Fiesole, Tuscany.

vinous93

Reviewed by: Eric Guido

The 2022 Testamatta arrests your attention as it slowly evolves with a bouquet of dried flowers, worn leather, tobacco and dried cherries. This opens with a lovely inner sweetness and silky smooth textures as a core of juicy acidity adds energy and ripe red fruits saturate. A coating of fine tannins flexes upon the palate as the 2022 finishes with outstanding length and a licorice tinge, structured for a balanced evolution. Beautiful.

james_suckling98

Reviewed by: James Suckling

The purity of fruit is so impressive, with al dente fruit character of sliced cherries, cranberries and citrus fruit that’s wonderfully melted together. It’s medium- to full-bodied and grows on the palate, with firm and layered tannins and a long, intense finish. This needs three to four years to refine but is already so enticing. Great beauty. Already irresistible, but best after 2027.