Wine Advisor
Bibi Graetz, Testamatta 2021
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Description
"Testamatta” – “crazy-head” in Italian - is the best word to describe Bibi Graetz: a positive, creative and passionate person. Testamatta wine expresses the purity, minerality and transparency of Sangiovese from old vines on the top of the hills characterized by soils rich of stones. A Supertuscan made with 100% Sangiovese, result of the combination of tradition and creativity.
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Monica Larner
The 2021 Testamatta is Sangiovese sourced from various hilltop vineyards spanning different cool microclimates. The ideal is to underline the transparency and fragility of the variety. Fruit from the Olmo Vineyard plays a big role and “gives a strong imprint to this wine,” Bibi says. Testamatta offers fresh aromas of violet, rose, forest green and candied orange peel. Bibi says 2021 was generally warmer than 2020, but all three vintages—2020, 2021 and 2022—are considered hot. He is upbeat regarding 2023 thanks to all the rain. Testamatta shows an earthy note that gives this wine (with 120,000 bottles made) a slightly more accessible personality. The tannins are lightly managed and the oak framing is down to an elegant minimum. Bibi buys 1% new oak each year, and his oldest barrels date back to 2003. He does not pull leaves, and he employs methods that do not concentrate his fruit so he can safeguard the typicity of Sangiovese. Winemaking is as natural as possible. The beautiful results are classic and bright. He strives to keep alcohol contents below 13%.
Reviewed by: Monica Larner
From a vintage I really love comes the Bibi Graetz 2021 Testamatta. This wine has dark fruit, cherry, powdered chocolate and chalky mineral. This vintage represents a turning point for this eccentric vintner who decided to change styles and focus on the red fruits and high notes. Nonetheless, this wine delivers good freshness and balance, and I like it better than the 2020 vintage that Bibi himself prefers. To me, the 2021 has more vertical freshness. This is a release of 120,000 bottles.
Reviewed by: Eric Guido
Beautifully understated and finessed, the 2021 Testamatta blossoms with an array of wild strawberries, rose petals and dusty sage. It’s silky to the core, with an elegant wave of ripe red and blue fruits that flows across a stream of fresh acidity. This tapers off with a tactile mineral tinge and a crunchy wild berry concentration as hints of licorice fade amidst a gentle tug of fine tannin. The continued push toward purity at Bibi Graetz is on full display here.
Reviewed by: James Suckling
Fabulous aromas of strawberries, orange zest and orange blossom. So pure on the nose. Very perfumed. Medium-bodied with intense linear tannins that are ultra-fine in texture. It's fresh and salty with a brightness and focus. Minerally and crisp. pH is 3.4 highlighting the strength of the acidity. Crunchy. Salty. So delicious now but this will age incredibly well.
About the Producer
Bibi Graetz is one of the best wine producers in Tuscany, which has become famous for its Soffocone di Vincigliata, Colore, Testamatta Rosso and Bianco wines. Its grapes come from vines of about 80 years of age, the autochthonous: Sangiovese, Colorino and Cannaiolo. The Bibi Graetz estate is located in Vincigliata, a small village behind the Fiesole hill.
