Wine Advisor
Anne Gros, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru Le Grand Maupertui 2005
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: David Schildknecht
The Anne Gros 2005 Clos Vougeot Le Grand Maupertui offers aromas of plum, blackberry, vanilla, wood smoke, black tea, and tincture of iodine. Charred meat flavors join the purple and black fruits on the palate, and here, too, a toasted, resinous, slightly detached note of new wood is evident. The wine finishes with genuine grand cru length, and has density, girth, and underlying structure that suggest waiting the better part of a decade – which may also bring better integration of the oak – before pulling a cork. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits ($42.00; 86). A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93.
About the Producer
Subtle, harmonious, supple—Burgundy from Domaine Anne Gros is intimately tied with the elegant and poised character of wines from Vosne-Romanée. While each cru faithfully reflects its terroir, it is terroir as translated through Gros’ expert touch, offering richer aromatics, rounder curves, silkier tannins. The combination is irresistible, so much so that Gros’ very limited production is snapped up by global collectors faster and faster each vintage. Anne Gros simply is one of the top winemakers in Burgundy today, which explains why her wines have inspired such a cult-like following. Importantly for us, Gros personifies the sort of winemaker with whom we have always sought to work: an artisan with a clear vision of her terroir and talents, and the grace to be humble despite the weight of Burgundian tradition and family history. Anne Gros took over her father’s winery (Domaine François Gros) in the late 1980s. Yet there have been Gros family members in Vosne since the 1830s; land holdings have split among family members for generations. Today, there are four separate wineries in Vosne owned by the extended Gros family, including Domaine Anne Gros: Gros Frere et Soeur, Anne-Francoise Gros and Michel Gros, all of whom are Anne’s cousins.
