Wine Advisor
Alain Hudelot Noellat, Romanee St Vivant Grand Cru 2014
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
Deep, dark red. Brooding, youthfully medicinal aromas of red cherry, dark berries, mocha and cocoa powder. Dense and tactile, with dark cherry, raspberry and spice flavors showing enough sweetness to support the wine's salty minerality. Finishes sappy, energetic, precise and very long, with substantial ripe tannins in need of cellaring.
Reviewed by: Stephen Tanzer
(this and the Richebourg were aged in 50% new oak): Healthy dark red. Flamboyantly ripe aromas of musky dark cherry, dark berries, mocha and bitter chocolate. Wonderfully sweet in the mid-palate but with a serious spine of acids and tannins and strong soil salinity currently keeping the wine's primary fruits under wraps. Tannins are a bit tough in the early going but there should be more than enough stuffing to support them.
Reviewed by: Neal Martin
I knew that the 2014 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru would be great when I tasted it from barrel last year...but not this great. It has a wonderful, tensile bouquet that just seems to sparkle. The fruit is so crystalline and laden with energy and mineralité that you almost have to sit down! The palate is surfeit with energy, the fruit perhaps a little darker than in barrel with white pepper, spices towards the almost Richebourg-like finish. Tasting them side-by-side, I would err for this over the Richebourg - it is a magnificent wine from Charles van Canneyt.
About the Producer
In 1962, Alain inherited two small parcels of his father's Chambolle-Musigny Grand Cru Les Chames, plus several vineyards from his marriage to the great-granddaughter of Charles Noellat, a Vosne-Romanee winery family, and he established Domaine Alain Hudelot Noellat. The winery is now about 10 hectares (24 hectares) in size. The estate now has about 10 hectares (24 acres) of vineyards with an average age of over 50 years, including several dating back to 1920, including the vineyard at Romanée-Saint-Vivant. The winery is known for its lighter wines with nuanced and natural flavors. Now managed by third-generation grandson Charles van Canneyts, Hudelot-Nollat is not so different from its grandfather's time, when it was less visible in the thicker wines, but now it has the advantage of refinement, often with fresh, bright fruit, balanced acidity and silky tannins. The vinification is entirely de-stemmed, using local yeasts that are not comparable to artificial yeasts, with a relatively long pre-fermentation cold soak, mainly with trampled skins, and 18 months in new barrels at 20-60%. In 2012, Charles also started to buy grapes from other winegrowers under his own name to make his wine. Vosne-Romanee is a blend of three first growths, Suchots, Beaumonts and Malconsorts, and as young as it is, the Hudelot-Noellat family owns three first growths that are over 100 years old, so this VR is ostensibly a village wine, but with a first growth heritage. Jasper Morris MW has high praise for Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat. He believes that while Alain Hudelot's management has produced fine style reds, Charles van Canneyt has taken over and given the wines more concentration and backbone, retaining their elegance, but with more ageing potential and balance.
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