Wine Advisor
Isole e Olena, Cepparello Toscana 2006
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Description
Tasting notes
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Isole e Olena’s 2006 Cepparello (100% Sangiovese) reveals superb density and richness in a surprisingly medium-bodied style for this vintage. Candied red fruit, flowers, menthol and sweet herbs emerge from the glass with almost liqueur-like sweetness. The wine possesses outstanding balance and a long, sweet finish, with subtle notes of tar, licorice and herbs that make an appearance on the close. This is an elegant Cepparello that combines the ripeness of the vintage in a mid-weight, ethereal style. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. Proprietor Paolo De Marchi is one of Tuscany’s most inspired growers. As is often the case, the wines are very strong across the board. Various American importers, including: Petit Pois, Merion, PA; tel. (856) 608-9644; Carolina Wine Company, Norwood, MA; tel. (781) 278-2000; Giuliana Imports, Boulder, CO; tel. (303) 449-5477; The Country Vintner, Louisa, VA; tel. (804) 784-2886; Grape Expectation Inc., Richmond, CA; tel. (510) 412-5969; Bommarito Wines, Saint Louis, MO; tel. (314) 961-8996; Connoisseur Wines, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 561-8705
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
Isole e Olena’s 2006 Cepparello (100% Sangiovese) reveals superb density and richness in a surprisingly medium-bodied style for this vintage. Candied red fruit, flowers, menthol and sweet herbs emerge from the glass with almost liqueur-like sweetness. The wine possesses outstanding balance and a long, sweet finish, with subtle notes of tar, licorice and herbs that make an appearance on the close. This is an elegant Cepparello that combines the ripeness of the vintage in a mid-weight, ethereal style. Anticipated maturity: Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. Various American importers including: Petit Pois, Merion, PA; tel. (856) 608-9644; Carolina Wine Company, Norwood, MA; tel. (781) 278-2000; Giuliana Imports, Boulder, CO; tel. (303) 449-5477; The Country Vintner, Louisa, VA; tel. (804) 784-2886; Grape Expectation Inc., Richmond, CA; tel. (510) 412-5969; Bommarito Wines, Saint Louis, MO; tel. (314) 961-8996; Connoiseur Wines, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 561-8705
Reviewed by: Antonio Galloni
The 2006 Cepparello is a super classic wine. It brings together the best elements of the house style in its breathtaking aromatics, delineated fruit and striking overall balance. All of the elements are in the right place for the 2006 to develop into a spectacular wine. The 2006 stands apart for its nuance, depth and overall detail. Juicy red cherries, raspberries, rose petals and licorice build to the huge, dramatic finish. The 2006 is one of the all-time great Cepparellos. It bears more than a passing resemblance to the stunning 1988. The 2006 has blossomed beautifully in bottle over the last few years, and it is now clear I underestimated its potential. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2036. Proprietor Paolo De Marchi has left an indelible and highly personal stamp on Isole e Olena, and all of Chianti Classico for that matter. Originally of Piedmontese descent, De Marchi stands apart from many of his colleagues for his vocal opinions and intense dedication to the vineyard above all else. Since taking over his family’s estate in the late 1970s, De Marchi has transformed Isole e Olena into a powerhouse. The flagship Cepparello is 100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels. This nearly complete vertical charts the history of one of Tuscany’s most compelling wines. The first Cepparellos were vinified in cement. The cellar was heated to induce malolactic fermentation and the wines were subsequently aged roughly equal parts Slavonian oak casks and smaller French oak barriques, with a dollop of chestnut barrels thrown into the mix. It was a time of enormous sacrifice, given that green harvesting was viewed as throwing money out of the window, and every purchase of new French oak barrels was accompanied by a stern reprimand from De Marchi’s father to pay attention to costs. But De Marchi persevered. The fruits of his hard labor and pricing are amply captured in these magnificent wines.Over the years Cepparello has acquired a level of finesse it rarely had at the outset. Some of the refinements include giving the wines more air in vinification and an increase in the period of elevage in oak from 12-14 months to 18-20 months, which is the norm today. De Marchi says he started getting better quality oak around 1993, but it is the increased age of the vineyards themselves that have given Cepparello its finesse. Isole e Olena Cepparello Key Points: 1. 100% Sangiovese aged in French oak barrels 2. The top selection of the estate’s best fruits from their vineyards in Barberino Val d’Elsa, in the northern part of Chianti Classico 3. A style that emphasizes finesse over power, especially with bottle age 4. Aging potential: 20+ years
About the Producer
The Isola et Olena Estate, run by Paolo de Marchi, is yet another property that has seen a dramatic rise in quality over the last few decades. Paolo's family, originally from Piedmont, purchased the estate in the 1960s. His attention to detail in both the vineyard and the winery was the driving force that turned quality around. The wines have Cepparello at their head, a barrique-aged Sangiovese classified as an IGT - because at the time of its creation in the 1980s a wine comprising 100% Sangiovese could not legally be labelled as Chianti. There is a Chianti Classico and a Vin Santo, as well as some excellent wines from the Collezione de Marchi label, including a Syrah called Eremo, a Cabernet Sauvignon and a Chardonnay
